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When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble shop achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.